Today I will be going to Cologne to take down the last exhibition of the European tour of Batak textiles. The tour took us from Berlin to Cologne, to Prague, to Paris and then Delft. (See all about it on MJA Nashir's Facebook page. He is more faithful at documenting our footsteps than I.)
Gallery Smend kept our exhibition from June until September, for which we are very grateful.
Rudolf Smend send me this glowing review of our exhibition that appeared on his birthday! A nice way to close the tour. Just click on the image to make it readable.
And while I am at it, a nice article also appeared in Indonesian in Kompas.
Monday, September 10, 2012
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Linda and Legacy
During Fiber Face 3, the exhibition of international fiber
art in Yogyakarta, I was approached by a young blond woman who wanted a copy of
Legacy in cloth. Her name was Linda
Kaplanova. I had just sold my last copy. Linda said that she would contact me
again in Europe and we became Facebook friends. She said that she lived in the
Czech Republic
All photographs by MJA Nashir |
There was some magic in meeting her in Prague after having met her briefly in Yogyakarta two years earlier. I gradually recognized her as I stood there before the audience prefacing our film with an explanation about the importance of what we have called "Pulang Kampung" (returning cultural information and research results to indigenous peoples). She brought me a box of luscious strawberries and Prague waffles.
Linda was lovely. Those were special days for her. She
had just completed her final project for her Master of Arts and during the week, her art academy on the bank of the Moldau had been holding Open House. Her project
was on display. Today her degree was conferred. The future stretches before
her. When she visited us at the University of Life Sciences in Prague, she was
with a friend with whom she wishes to work. They are full of
idealistic ambition. Linda wants to make a go of it as an artist and bring the
beauty of Indonesian and other indigenous textiles to the people in the Czech
Republic. It will be a challenge, but already she has met that challenge in her final project; she is organizing an Indonesian Day of
films, textiles and photographs for the fall.
![]() |
| Linda was one with her project |
Of course we also talked about my plans to "pulang kampung" with our Rangsa ni Tonun film, i.e. to bring the text and the film back to the Batak people in the villages. We talked of the decline of indigenous culture and arts and the ways in which we will be able to meet the future. I repeated my refrain that has become a theme of this European tour with our film: it takes the world to sustain an indigenous art tradition. The future of indigenous cloth will be diverse. It will be found in art, fashion, hobby, craft, and interior design as well as the survival of indigenous traditions. Linda represents one or more of those paths. She is already an inspiring educator and artist who is incorporating indigenous techniques in her work. She is raising awareness and will face the challenge of finding a commercial avenue to ensure the viability of her ideals.
Linda studied batik in Yogyakarta but ikat captured her
heart when she saw it during her travels in Flores and Sumba (Eastern
Indonesia). Her final project was an application of the ikat technique to
interior design. On Sunday, MJA Nashir and I went to see it. The design of her chairs had been inspired by
chairs in Yogyakarta. She wore a shirt and pants that she had dyed with the
same colours that she had used in her project. She was one with her project as
she described the processes, challenges and goals of bringing it to completion.
Now she treated us to homemade lemonade and cherries picked from the tree of a
friend. Her health and grace were luminous.

Linda studied batik in Yogyakarta but ikat captured her
heart when she saw it during her travels in Flores and Sumba (Eastern
Indonesia). Her final project was an application of the ikat technique to
interior design. On Sunday, MJA Nashir and I went to see it. The design of her chairs had been inspired by
chairs in Yogyakarta. She wore a shirt and pants that she had dyed with the
same colours that she had used in her project. She was one with her project as
she described the processes, challenges and goals of bringing it to completion.
Now she treated us to homemade lemonade and cherries picked from the tree of a
friend. Her health and grace were luminous.Linda took us on a walk from the river to the presidential palace. The path started out narrow and treed. Suddenly it opened onto a green oasis. We sat down on the grassy field and then lay there to revel in the luxuriant calm and beauty of the earth. Linda goes there often, she said, to relinquish the stresses of her busy life in the city. There she finds inspiration and wholeness.
Saturday, June 23, 2012
Indonesian article about the Cologne component of our European Tour
Kain Ulos Batak Dikaji Ahli Jerman
Sosbud /
Sabtu, 23 Juni 2012 07:15 WIB
Metrotvnews.com, Frankfurt: Komunitas Batak memiliki pengetahuan tradisional bernilai tinggi tentang menenun Ulos. Sayangnya, dewasa ini teknik tradisional mulai ditinggalkan oleh para penenun. Padahal, hasil tenunan dengan teknik tradisionl lebih bagus daripada menggunakan teknik modern. Hal itu diungkapkan pakar Etnologis Dr Sandra Niessen dalam acara pameran tekstil Ulos Batak di Gallery Smend, di Kota Koeln, Jerman. Menurut pejabat KJRI Frankfurt, Hendriek Yopin, Jumat (22/6), dalam pameran tersebut Dr Niessen menayangkan secara detil bagaimana ulos ditenun dengan teknik tradisional yang sarat dengan nilai-nilai filsafat. Sandra Niessen memperlihatkan bagaimana warga suku Batak menenun Ulos melalui film singkat berdurasi 30 menit berjudul "Rangsa ni Tonun". Film yang dibuat MJA Nashir itu memperlihatkan setiap tahapan pembuatan ulos yang mengandung makna spiritual. Jika diurut, maknanya bermuara kepada kebesaran Tuhan sang pencipta. Konjen RI di Frankfurt, Damos Dumoli Agusman menyatakan kekagumannya atas upaya Dr Niessen dan Nashir merekonstruksi pengetahuan tradisional teknik menenun Ulos yang hampir saja menjadi bagian sejarah dari budaya Batak. Menurutnya, alat tradisional tenun Batak memang sudah hampir punah karena beralih ke alat yang lebih modern. Namun demikian teknik pembuatan tradisional perlu didokumentasikan dan dilestarikan. Pengetahuan tradisional sedang diperjuangkan di forum World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) di Jenewa sebagai hak intelektual komunitas yang akan mendapat perlindungan dari perspektif HAKI, ujarnya. Diharapkan dokumentasi ini akan membantu Pemerintah mengidentifikasi dan merekonstruksi kembali pengetahuan tradisional komunitas adat Indonesia yang mulai punah. Hal ini dengan sendirinya memperkuat perlindungan HAKI terhadap kemungkinan diklaim komunitas atau Negara lain, ujarnya. Menurut Konjen sudah tentu pengetahuan ini milik komunitas Batak dan upaya Niessen ini semakin memperkokoh kepemilikan orang Batak atas intelektual. Pengetahuan tradisional dan direkonstruksi secara sistematis serta dikemas dalam media yang dapat dipahami semua lapisan pengamat di dunia sehingga komunitas Batak tidak perlu lagi kuatir tentang titel kepemilikannya, ujar Damos. Dalam Film tersebut dikisahkan secara visual para penenun Batak menggunakan alat dan bahan-bahan yang sangat sederhana namun sangat kaya dengan makna filosofisnya. Dalam penuturannya, Dr Niessen berhasil mengumpulkan data-data dari berbagai arsip tentang teknik menenun ini dan membuat kembali alat-alat tersebut. Dia menunjukkan alat ini kepada sekelompok wanita Batak yang telah berusia lanjut dan tidak dapat membendung air matanya pada saat wanita tersebut memperagakan teknik traditional menenun dengan menggunakan alat-alat itu. Mereka sudah lama tidak melihat alat ini namun memorinya masih sempurna untuk menggunakan apa yang dialami pada saat remaja dan sayang sekali teknik ini tidak lagi berkembang dalam komunitas Batak dewasa ini, ujar Dr Niessen. Pameran ini diselenggarakan Rudolf Smend, yang telah lama menggeluti teknik pembuatan Batik Indonesia dan dihadiri pakar tenun dan akademisi Jerman yang tertarik dengan Indonesia. Dalam pameran tersebut hadir mantan misionaris Jerman yang pernah menetap di tanah Batak setelah era misionaris terkenal Jerman Dr Ingwer L Nomensen. (Ant/Wrt3)
source: http://www.metrotvnews.com/metromain/news/2012/06/23/95817/Kain-Ulos-Batak-Dikaji-Ahli-Jerman
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Text of my Opening Talk in Gallery Victoriastadt, Berlin
...celebrating
cultural legacy
Welcome to our exhibition of the textiles of
the Batak people of North Sumatra, Indonesia. These people live around a
magnificent lake in mountainous terrain. The photographs will give you a sense
of the ancestral home of the Batak people.
The textiles in this exhibition are not for
sale; only the photographs are for sale. These textiles formed the basis of a
book about Batak textiles that is present for you to examine and to order if you would like a copy (Legacy in cloth, Batak textiles of Indonesia).
The textile tradition of the Batak people is
one of the most ancient in the Indonesian archipelago. It is thousands of years old. Currently
weaving is in drastic decline. There is reason for concern that it may die out.
The textiles that you see in this exhibition are old. They are no longer made
with natural dyes and hand spun yarns and many of the techniques are disappearing.
Indigenous peoples everywhere in the world are
in crisis. The global economy leaves no room for their "alternative"
lifestyles. Weaving makes no sense any longer, financially, socially or even
spiritually, for most people. It used to be that life for the Batak was
unthinkable without textiles to accompany them every moment in their lives and
during every ritual. The hand woven textiles were used to clothe the people's
bodies and also to protect their souls.
Mrs. Hillary Clinton said, "It takes a
village to raise a child." I would like to adapt her concept and say,
"It takes the global village to maintain an indigenous art
tradition." We are thankful to the
Gallery in der Victoriastadt for this opportunity to share Batak textiles with
you. I believe that we share the responsibility for maintaining this
glorious weaving tradition.
MJA Nashir, the Indonesian who made the
photographs in the exhibition, and I, started to work together two years ago. I
brought forty copies of my extensive documentation of Batak textiles, based on
thirty years of research and fieldwork, to weavers in North Sumatra. Most of
their heritage textiles have been sold to tourists, collectors and dealers.
Through my book, they were able to see the full repertory of their weaving
tradition. Most of them were amazed at the beauty of their tradition. Most
young people have never seen the textiles that you see hanging in this gallery.
The gift of my book has led to a revival of
Batak weaving in one village. The people believed that it was too valuable to
allow to disappear. Mas Nashir and I have witnessed over and over again how
important it is for people in the villages to have access to information about
their cultural heritage. Most of the Batak intelligentsia have left the
villages to go to the cities. The young people aspire to leave and not to
weave.
Mas Nashir has written a book about our
travels. You will see it here on display: Berkelana dengan Sandra: Menyusuri Ulos Batak. It is in Indonesian. In it, he shares
his insights into the importance of repatriating cultural knowledge. His book
is doing very well among Batak people who feel moved by this recognition of
their culture. When he finished writing his book, we returned to the Batak area
to give copies to the people about whom he wrote. To our mind, there is an ethical imperative
in ensuring that the people whom we study and about whom we write, receive copies
of the information that we produce.
Mas Nashir and I have also made a film
together, Rangsa ni Tonun. It is about Batak weaving techniques and it is based on a text that
was written by a member of the Batak intelligentsia almost 150 years ago. The Guru explains the spiritual origin of weaving. The Batak believed that weaving was
passed down from the gods. This film
will be shown tomorrow night in the Indonesian Embassy of Berlin. It starts at
18.00 (six p.m.). We hope that you will be able to attend. There will be a short
introductory lecture, the film is a half hour in length, and then there will be
time for a discussion and snacks.
Mas Nashir and I plan to bring this film to
North Sumatra. We will travel with our computers and a screen and we will show
the film in village after village. In this way, we will restore to the Batak people the
ancient Batak text -- now found only in archives in Germany and Holland -- and,
just as important, celebrate the weaving arts.
Until now, Mas Nashir and I have had no
funding to do our work. I have used my savings and my pension and all proceeds
from my book. Friends and other people
who believe in our work have also helped us in a variety of ways. We have
decided to look for corporate support. We hope that we will be successful
because I am no longer able to continue on my own resources.
Mas Nashir is brilliant not just as a
photographer, filmer and writer, but also in maintaining relationships with
people. He has developed a large community on Facebook, mostly Indonesian
people, who follow what we are doing. While most of them are not with us
tonight, there are hundreds of people in Indonesia who know about this opening
in Victoriastadt and are with us in spirit. Our Batak friends are very proud
about this exhibition of their culture.
We invite you to join our Facebook site. You will find it under MJA Nashir. My Facebook name is Sandra Niessen and I live in Oosterbeek
(Netherlands).
I also keep a blog in which I share my Batak
adventures. http://bataktextiles.blogspot.de/
I invite you to look it up and join me. It is
part of my website, kindly donated to me by Pamela Cross, my dear friend in
England. (Please see her own important forum for aficionados of indigenous
textiles: http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community).
If you would like more information or you
would like to get in touch with us, please feel free to send me an email or to
contact me by telephone:
Sandra.Niessen@gmail.com
Mobile Phone: 31- 6 22 50 66 46
In closing, I would
like to thank Joachim Blank for faithfully organizing our Berlin events at TAB
and here in Victoriastadt, and also next week in Cologne. He saw our exhibition
in Jakarta and recognized it as something that would interest a Berlin
audience. Then he invested his energy to make it happen.
I would also like to
thank Mrs. N. Wolters who has been willing to have my textiles fill her gallery
space even though they are not for sale. She also kindly donated our booth at
Textile Art Berlin.
Thankfully, both of
these people understand the importance of textiles beyond their commercial
value.
The Indonesian Embassy in Berlin and the Department of the Secretary of State in Indonesia have made it possible for MJA Nashir to come to Berlin and they have helped to defray some of our costs. We are extremely grateful for this assistance.
Thank you again for
joining us tonight. Thank you for forming a community of support for indigenous
textiles.
Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Keeping TABs (Textile Art Berlin)
Batak
textiles were at the top of the list of exhibitions at the annual TAB (Textile Art Berlin) event in Carl Ossietzky School in Berlin this past weekend (9 and
10 June). It was a superb opportunity to show our
work on Batak textiles to a textile-loving public in Germany. People came from
far and wide to attend the event. Twice we were able to show our film, Rangsa
ni Tonun, to an appreciative audience.
![]() |
| A group of Danish textile experts and textile enthusiasts came to Berlin to visit TAB. Because of their request, we could show our film a second time. (Photograph by MJA Nashir) |
The
visitors were truly enthusiastic. Especially the weavers among them could appreciate
the finely woven textiles. There were those to whom I had to explain certain
basics like the ikat technique (the dyeing of patterns in the yarns before
they are woven), but it was clear that the textiles created their own mood and
atmosphere and that this required no explanation. People were awed by their
simple, elegant, undemanding grace. Sometimes I was quite moved by people's
reactions and I knew that they had seen and felt the origin of my own love for
this woven tradition. The textiles have an integrity not found in industrially
made products. The old ones have a deeply spiritual quality. They speak of the
human spirit and reveal skills so highly honed that they can elicit gasps and
incredulousness. One woman visited our booth again and again. The textiles
filled her with an undefinable longing and she wanted to be in their presence. She
felt that she was missing their influence in her life. She sensed the world of
which the cloths were a part.
Our booth
had many visitors, but I tore myself away on the last day to visit other
booths and exhibitions. I was fascinated by the TAB event. It called to
mind an art tapestry that I had once seen of warheads entitled Blanket
of Peace. The contrast between the woven medium and the depicted image was
unforgettable. Just putting women and cloth together seems to yield a
particular ambience. Words like peace, calm, kindness, gentleness and attentiveness
spring to mind. I was delighted to be a part of it: colour, creativity,
inspiration.
I was also delighted
to bring Batak weavers of the past, albeit represented only by their work, into
the fold. I remembered Ompu Okta's (the leading weaver in the Rangsa ni Tonun
film) excitement when she participated in Fiber Face 3, the International Textile Art Exhibition,, in Yogyakarta. The vision of Agus Ismoyo and Nia Fliam to bring
together modern, trained fiber artists with indigenous textile makers is strong
and apt. The inspiration that this combination generates is mutual.
Apparently
this annual event has been going on for years. It runs primarily on the energy
of people who do it for love because makers rarely earn enough for their handmade textiles. But their work IS rational!
That it does not pay -- while warheads are hugely subsidized by taxpayer money --
is what is irrational! This is women's work, women's art: underpaid,
undervalued. It fosters community and peace. It contributes beauty and a sense
of accomplishment and pride. May TAB in Berlin go on forever! And Batak
textiles, too.
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Schedule of Batak Textile Events in Europe 2012
A. Textile Arts Berlin (TAB)
9 - 10 June, 2012
Karl von Ossietzky School, Berlin Kreuzberg
1. Photo Exhibition of Batak Textile Arts by MJA Nashir
2. Exhibition of Batak textiles from the collection of Sandra
Niessen
3. European Premiere of the ethnographic film RANGSA NI TONUN by
filmer/director MJA
Nashir, and anthropologist Sandra Niessen, about Batak weaving techniques
Saturday
9 June and Sunday 10 June, 15:00 EG, Room 29
14 Juni
- 2 juli 2012
Türrschmidtstraße
12
10317 Berlin
Lichtenberg
S-Bhf
Nöldnerplatz, Bus 194, 240, 396
1. Photo Exhibition of Batak Textile Arts by MJA Nashir
2. Exhibition of Batak textiles from the collection of
Sandra Niessen
C. Indonesian Embassy, Berlin
15 June 2012, 18.00
Showing of ethnographic film, Rangsa ni Tonun.
D. Gallerie Smend,
Cologne
20 Juni - 15
September 2012
Mainzer Straße 31
50678 Köln
tel ++49 / 221 /
312 047
1. Photo Exhibition of Batak Textile Arts by MJA Nashir
2. Exhibition of Batak textiles from the collection of
Sandra Niessen
3. Film Rangsa ni
Tonun
The ethnographic film,
Rangsa ni Tonun, will be shown at the opening of the exhibition on 20 June at 19.00.
The exhibition
will be opened by the Consul General, Mr. Damos, of the Indonesian Consulate in
Frankfurt.
It will be shown
again on 21 June at 11: a.m. after the tour of the exhibition at 10 a.m.
E. 5th International Mechanical Forum University of
Life Sciences, Prague
22 June, 15:00 - 16:00
1. Photo Exhibition of Batak Textile Arts by MJA Nashir
2. Exhibition of Batak Textiles from the collection of
Sandra Niessen
3. Film Viewing Rangsa ni Tonun followed by discussion
F. Studio of Fashion Designer Marie
Labarelle, Paris
26 June, 19.30 p.m.
Informal Viewing of the ethnographic film, Rangsa ni Tonun
followed by discussion
RSVP - only 30 places available
Les
vêtements ont une âme
Atelier- Boutique: 34 rue des Petites
Ecuries, Paris 10, métro Bonne Nouvelle / Château d'Eau
Ouvert tous les jours du
mardi au samedi de 13h à 19h30, tel: 01 44 83 94 http:www.marielabarelle.com
G. Museum Nusantara, Delft
1 July, 14.00 - 15.30
Showing of film Rangsa ni Tonun plus introduction and
discussion during a meeting of the friends of the Museum..
Monday, May 21, 2012
Gratifying Email
Since carrying out the Back to the Villages project, I have received many emails from family members of people who received a copy of my book, Legacy in Cloth (2009). I enjoy these emails not just because it is wonderful to be the recipient of heartfelt messages but because many of the messages give me a sense of the impact that the Back to the Villages project has had. Giving away copies of my book did not take long. It was just a short, happy project. However, I nurture hope that my gifts will continue to "give back" to the villages and that the Batak recipients will be inspired by their renewed knowledge of their own tradition.
Recently, I received an email that was particularly moving because it seemed to be an answer to a prayer. I know that Batak textiles cannot survive into the future unless the Batak people themselves consciously decide to support their tradition with vigour. This is an excerpt from a man on Samosir Island, Pak Wilson Sitanggang, who made precisely that decision. In a future blog I will provide the English translation. This one is dedicated to the Indonesian followers of my blog. Selamat membaca! Semoga kabar ini bermanfaat!
Recently, I received an email that was particularly moving because it seemed to be an answer to a prayer. I know that Batak textiles cannot survive into the future unless the Batak people themselves consciously decide to support their tradition with vigour. This is an excerpt from a man on Samosir Island, Pak Wilson Sitanggang, who made precisely that decision. In a future blog I will provide the English translation. This one is dedicated to the Indonesian followers of my blog. Selamat membaca! Semoga kabar ini bermanfaat!
Setelah
mengetahui dan membaca Buku ibu Legacy In Cloth dan Buku abang Mja Nashir [Berkelana dengan Sandra; Menyusuri Ulos Batak] saya
senang, terharu dan merasa terpanggil untuk ikut bagian dalam pelestarian ulos
batak. Hasil penelitian Ibu Sandra dan buku abang Mja Nashir saya yakin dapat
menyadarkan masyarakat Batak agar kembali ke Ulos asli (klasik).
Hasil
Penelitian ibu sandra dan buku Mja Nashir saya yakini dapat mengobati
kebingungan masyarakat Batak agar kembali ke ulos asli dan klasik bu.
Semaksimal mungkin saya akan mengajak, menganjurkan keluarga, saudara, kerabat
dan masyarakat Batak di lingkungan dan komunitas saya agar kembali ke ulos
hasil tonun namaritom. Saya berpimikiran jika dalam jangka waktu 5 atau 10
tahun ini sudah banyak orang Batak yang kembali ke ulos Batak namaritom
otomatis partonun akan bertumbuh dan lahir kembali.. bila perlu saya akan
memprovokasi keluarga, kerabat dan saudara saya dengan kalimat" tidak
perlu memberi dan menerima ulos banyak-banyak kalau bukan hasil tonun
namaritom, lebih baik satu atau sedikit asalkan hasil tonun namaritom"
dengan kata lain" mengutamakan kualitas daripada kuantitas".
Berikut
hal-hal kecil yang telah saya lakukan setelah membaca penelitian ibu Sandra dan
buku abang Mja Nashir :
(1).
Saya sudah minta tolong sama ibu saya agar memesan ulos Suri-suri ke partonun,
ternyata banyak partonun yang tidak bisa. Ibu saya bertemu dengan partonun yang
menyanggupi pesanan saya namun secara pribadi saya belum puas karena benangnya
bukan namaritom, akan tetapi saya tetap menghargai dan berterimaksih kepada ibu
saya dan partonun.
(2)
Saya sudah minta tolong sama ibu saya agar menghitung dan merawat ulos
namaritom milik ibu saya.
(3)
Dalam acara tertentu saya memakai ulos Sitolu tuho pemberian ompung boru (ibu
bapak ) saya 23 Tahun yang lalu ( Ulos tersebut hasil tonunya sendiri)
(4)
Menceritakan hasil penelitian ibu Sandra kepada orang batak yang saya
temui/jumpai.
(5)
Menceritakan buku abang Mja Nashir kepada teman dan kerabat.
(6)
Saya juga minta tolong sama ibu saya agar membeli ulos namaritom yang sudah
tidak dirawat pemiliknya( daripada dibakar dan tidak terawat)
Rencana
jangka pendek dan jangka panjang saya:
(1)
Tetap mengajak masyarakat batak agar kembali ke ulos namaritom secara
berkelanjutan
(2)
Mengajak partonun di buhit agar belajar mangitom dan manonun ulos batak klasik
dan memberikan harapan dan poenjelasan kepada mereka bahwa suatu saat dalam
waktu yang tidak lama hasil tonun mereka akan dihargai dan dibutuhkan.
(3)
Sudah berdiskusi dengan isteri dan ibu saya agar ke depan dalam memberikan ulos
jika masih keluarga dekat harus memberikan ulos namaritom.
(4) Saya akan kerjasama dengan isteri dan kelaurga yang mau untuk menjadi penyedia
(penguhubung) antara partonun dan pembeli tanpa pengambil untung ( bukan jual
beli).
(5)
Secara bertahap membeli dan membagikan buku abang Mja Nashir kepada kerabat dan
sahabat yang mau peduli dan membantu pelestarian ulos. ( dalam hal ini saya
selektif
agar tepat sasaran bu). Saya juga berharap ada cetakan edisi berikutnya buku
Legacy in Cloth bu....
(5)
Mempertumakan partonun senior/berpengalaman dengan partonun pemula ( belum bisa
dalam waktu dekat karena domisili saya di medan )
(6)
Jika diperlukan membuat buku petunjuk praktis proses pembuatan ulos.
(7)
Membuat daftar nama , alamat dan nomor partonun yang bisa dihubungi agar
memudahkan pembeli memesan ulos/
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)





